Darwin, a city located on Australia’s northern edge, has become obsessed with laksa, a sour and spicy noodle broth dish. Laksa is now a staple in the city, consumed for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and is available everywhere from food courts and cafes to high-end restaurants. The love for laksa in this multicultural city has led to weekly rituals, fierce rivalries, and the transformation of humble chefs into local celebrities. The city’s infatuation with laksa is particularly evident at the local markets, where crowds gather to get their fix of the beloved soup.
The origin of the laksa obsession in Darwin is unclear, but it can likely be attributed to the city’s rich multicultural history. Darwin is geographically closer to Asia than any other Australian capital, and has a long history of cultural exchange and trade with its Asian neighbors. The city’s diverse population, with more than half of its residents being born overseas or having a parent who was, has also contributed to the widespread love for laksa.
The laksa fever reaches its peak during the annual laksa festival, where a giant shrine to laksa is erected in the city’s mall and the streets are adorned with banners promoting the event. The festival showcases a variety of traditional laksa dishes, as well as more adventurous creations such as laksa ice-cream, laksa pies, and laksa crocodile dumplings. Vendors compete for the coveted Golden Bowl award, which is determined through a blind tasting.
One of the standout contributors to the laksa fever in Darwin is Jason Chin, the owner of Chok’s Place. Jason’s mother started the business 30 years ago, and he followed in her footsteps, eventually becoming the city’s laksa king and a decorated chef. His participation in the laksa festival led to a surge in business, with Chok’s Place going from selling only six laksas a day to nearly 100. Today, Jason ensures the quality of his laksa by capping the number of dishes at 50.
The laksa fever has also inspired creativity among chefs, leading to unique laksa-inspired creations. One example is the Basque burnt cheesecake at Kopi Stop, which features a laksa paste layer instead of a traditional biscuit base. Another unusual creation is the Laksa Seltzer at One Mile Brewery, which combines fruity flavors with hints of lime, coriander, and chili.
While some laksa-inspired dishes are controversial and divisive, locals see them as a celebration of Darwin’s uniqueness and innovation. The laksa fever has brought the community together and represents the city’s identity as a multicultural hub. Overall, laksa has become more than just a dish in Darwin; it is a symbol of the city’s diversity and culinary creativity.
The popularity of laksa in Darwin shows no signs of waning. The annual laksa festival continues to attract visitors and locals alike, and the city’s obsession with laksa remains strong. Whether it’s the traditional laksa varieties or the more daring and unconventional adaptations, laksa has become an integral part of Darwin’s gastronomic landscape. So, if you’re in Darwin, be prepared to join the laksa fever and experience the unique flavors and culinary innovations that this city has to offer.
